When the Giles Autumn/Winter 2011 line was shown last night at the Royal Courts of Justice, it hardly seemed like the same designer of the Spring/Summer 2011 collection of cartoons and cleavage. Giles Deacon works best at a level close to couture and the new collection for this high-lux label was seriously strong.
Giles said “austere, not austerity. I thought about the nineteenth century obsession with female hysteria; something buttoned up, but at the same time something completely wild lurking underneath.”
Waistbands on cocoon shaped dresses were cinched with black leather and glistening corsets over crisp white shirting with Edwardian ruffles. High-necked leather tunics showed a flare of dominatrix, jet beading added romance to dresses and waffled brocade and billowing fur for texture.
With all seriousness aside, the humour of the label...the reason I am enamoured with Giles, was nonetheless still there. The invites to the show were “official Giles summons” on court paper and the collection included bulging goat hair and dyed black peacock feathers that resembled porcupine spines, which were exaggerated to the point it couldn’t be taken wholly seriously.
What I love about this label is that since his first collection in 2004, with his ever-enhancing sophisticated designs he still manages to pull through the feeling of fun and youthfulness. This demonstrates, Giles, credited with injecting high-octane glamour into British fashion, that although his couture brand has greatly evolved, it is clearly evident that it's frolicsome origins still play a significant part in Giles’ designs.
Bravo!
Front row guests included Pixi Geldof, Mary Portas, Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman and Alexander Wang.
Watch the show here: Giles A/W 2011 collection
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